

Now this is yet another plate that can be rolled. Here is the same plate with the paper removed. On the left is the silver rolled with the plate.

With the punches you have the punched out pieces to glue on – altered or not and the punched out paper to use with or with out another texture of paper or screen backing it.) Here I cut the circles up and then glued them to the metal. Plan for the overhang needed in soldering which will be removed.įor this plate I cut out circles ( there are a lot of different sized paper punches and some interesting images. Tip: don’t make my mistake – the design is too close too the edge and would have too much cut off if used for a top on a hollow form.

So I love the paper on metal plates because I can make them any size I want and custom sizes to fit the one little piece of metal I need at that moment. I have a lot of textured plates that I have etched for rolling in the mill, but often I don’t want to roll a piece of metal that big all of that one design. The background is textured and the design is smooth. What I liked about the paper on the metal ( as opposed to the paper on paper) is the metal is smooth and the paper part is textured for a nice contrast on the finished piece.) The stencil (see below) also gives this contrast but it is the opposite. Photo above shows plate and the silver I rolled with it. I got glue on the metal and it too created a subtlety of texture. If you use a fairly permanent glue the paper will stay on offering additional rollings ( most paper plates are finished with one use). I cut the shapes out of a heavy stock paper and glued it to a heavy gauge sheet of red brass. The first sample above shows a variation on a ‘paper plate’. In this post I am offering some suggestions on texturing metal using the rolling mill. This requires a lot of different surface patterns. As stated in a previous post I love to make hollow forms.
